Puristic timekeeping with a meticulously crafted heart

16 years after Zeitwinkel introduced its first watchmodels, we decided to launch a redesign on of the first models originally introduced in 2009. Our models 312° and 082° are the most puristic and restrained expression of the Zeitwinkel watchmaking philosophy. Nothing distracts from reading the display of hours and minutes except for maybe the seconds hand on our model 082°.

Don’t be fooled by the elegant and understated appearance of these watch models. Beneath the dial beats one of the most beautiful and elaborately automatic movements found in a modern timepiece: our exclusive caliber ZW0102. A unique caliber born from the the love for artisan watchmaking and dedicated craftsmanship perfected over many years.

 

At first glance, our watches with central hands (as opposed to our models with decentral or small seconds display) appear rather restrained. It’s only upon closer inspection that one discovers the effort invested into the design and creation of the dials and watch cases.

The puristic design is a very deliberate decision by our founders and a direct result of our watchmaking philosophy. We don’t aim to impress others but rather want to create a modern expression of traditional artisanal horology. This results in beautiful watches that make it easy to read the time.

 

 

 

 

The heart of our Zeitwinkel watches:

Our automatic inhouse caliber ZW0102

Long before our founders started Zeitwinkel, they often discussed what it would mean to build honest watches where actual watchmaking played the dominant role, not marketing or branding. They quickly reached the conclusion that it would mean developing an own movement. For them, the movement needed to have an automatic winding mechanism and not be based on anything else available in the market. Even today, developing a movement from scratch would be no small feat.

After they started to work on it in earnest in 2006, it took them three years and many setbacks. After all, they not only put a focus on technical aspects, but also on esthetics and materials. The result is our caliber ZW0102: designed, developed and manufactured in the Swiss Jura, a unique mix between more Germanic characteristics such as a three-quarter plate and traditional Swiss watchmaking.

 

 

When we constructed our movements, our primary focus was on precision and serviceability. This meant using very solid bridges instead of aiming for the thinnest possible caliber. It also led us to use a solid three-quarter plate which reduces flexing and unwanted play. This commitment to structural integrity requires extreme precision during assembly.

At no point did we aim at making our movements suitable for automated or industrial production. In contrast to mass-produced alternatives, we use a unique mix of high precision machinery to manufacture the raw parts and traditional watchmaking methods to finish them. The machines used for finishing are sometimes older than our founders and require skilled watchmakers to operate them.

 

 

In fact, we deliberately opted for uncoated German Silver (“maillechort”), which requires assembly entirely by hand by our watchmakers. Also called Nickel Silver, it is an alloy of copper, nickel and zinc which is considerably harder than the brass normally used. Its beautiful color that develops a light but very warm patina if left uncoated. It however requires special care as touching it with bare fingers will leave spots and obviously, any mistakes that happen during the handling or decoration of the movement cannot be covered up.

The Zeitwinkel caliber ZW0102 has a diameter of 30.4 mm, 30 bearing jewels, a total of 257 components, a frequency of 28,800 oscillations, a Glucydur balance and a very reactive, bi-directional automatic winding mechanism. The total running time of the movement is 72 hours. The ZW0102 is regulated in five positions, very precise and also very good looking. So much for the technical aspects.

 

At least 75% of the work on the ZW0102 takes place only after all the parts have been machined. We assemble everything, including the smallest components, by hand and then decorate even the undersides and areas the owner of a Zeitwinkel watch will never see. If you were to disassemble the movement of your Zeitwinkel watch, you would find anglage (chamfering), black polishing, Geneva stripes, straight lining and perlage in different sizes.

For more on these techniques and how our watchmakers apply them like they would have done fifty years ago, check out our section on movements and our regular blog posts.

Thanks to this artisanal production methods, the labor-intensive decoration and the long hours of manual work at the bench, our watchmakers create a true individual beating heart every time a Zeitwinkel watch is built.

 

Beautiful dials to complement our inhouse calibers

 

The dials of our models with central seconds hand are designed with one purpose in mind: to allow the owner of the watch to read the time as precisely as it is measured by our inhouse caliber ZW0102 in all light situations.

But of course, we also believe that our dials should reflect the workmanship and the attention to detail that our watchmakers apply to our movements. They are therefore much more than just a background for hour and minute markers.

 

While the dials of our models 312° and 082° may appear puristic and straightforward, they are actually full of details. And we make sure that they achieve the level of craftmanship our founders expect from a watch.

Let’s start with the basics: The dials for our watches with central hands are manufactured not far from our manufacture and made up from three distinct sectors or segments: the round central plate, a broad ring under the numerals and indices and a narrow ring for the minute markers (minuterie).

 

 

The center plate features a pronounced yet subtle tapestry of our Zeitwinkel logo, derived from the inverted “W” of our proprietary Zeitwinkel typeface. It is galvanized in either “Black Or” or Silver. The design is a modernized homage to our previous dial design, used from 2009 to 2025.

The broad ring under the applied metal numerals features a structure of concentric circles, thus ensuring readability together with the shadow of the appliques. Last but not least, the minute markers on the outer ring make sure that every minute and every second count.

 

The stainless steel cases of our watches

Zeitwinkel watch housing 39mm

Every detail of the Zeitwinkel stainless cases is purposefully crafted to complement the in-house ZW0102 manufacture movement they protect. The striking interplay of polished surfaces and finely textured details gives every Zeitwinkel case its unmistakable character and presence.

Our cases are constructed of 1.4435 steel alloy which has a high resistance to intercrystalline corrosion and non-oxidized acids, so it is particularly suited for products that are in continuous contact with skin.

 

 

To achieve its signature contours, each watch case is manufactured using precision machinery. After that, the construction is completed primarily by hand. In this process, 26 parts are assembled in more than 80 individual steps.

With a diameter of either 39mm or 42.5 mm, our cases offer a bold silhouette that remains elegantly balanced on the wrist. Their downward-sloping lugs ensure a comfortable and proportionate fit, enhancing both wearability and visual harmony. Our cases are water resistant up to a tested pressure of five bar.

 

 

 

case dimensions 39mm

 

 

case dimensions 42.5mm

 

Original Zeitwinkel straps – the ideal match for your watch

We offer the option of either an alligator pattern embossed calf leather strap or a natural caoutchouc strap for our watches. And of course, our watches with central second hand will also look great with many other types of straps that can be purchased from independent strap specialists!

Our calf leather straps

For our leather straps, only hand-selected skins are processed and refined with the traditional full-bugg technique. The result is a supple and extremely durable strap available in various colors. For animal welfare reasons, we completely abstain from using reptile leather and replace it by high-quality hand-sewn calfskin.

The exclusive use of vegetable colorants, antiallergic leather as well as caoutchouc-based glues provide for excellent skin friendliness and pleasant wear. Our Zeitwinkel folding clasp is made of antiallergic stainless steel 316L and can easily be opened and closed with one hand, while at the same time being as easily adjustable as a pin buckle.

 

For our models 312° and 082°, a wide variety of colors is suitable for those with monochromatic dials. We recommend a light blue strap for our models with glacier blue / silver dials.

 

 

 

Our natural caoutchouc straps

 

 

As an alternative to our leather straps, our watches can also be ordered with our durable caoutchouc watch straps. Caoutchouc has proven to be very skin-friendly and extremely durable not only for the use in warmer climates, but also during more athletic activities. It is waterproof, UV-resistant, tearproof and dimensionally stable.

We have designed the antiallergic strap for our 42.5mm models from scratch from natural caoutchouc, free from harmful substances so solid that it does not bulge even when worn for a longer period of time. The Zeitwinkel logos which are embossed on the inner side of the strap provide for a better ventilation of the skin and improve wear comfort.

 

 

The 42.5mm Zeitwinkel caoutchouc watch strap is closed with a high precision manufactured folding clasp made of polished stainless steel 316L that can be opened and closed with one hand. It is necessary to cut the strap to the length of the wrist, which can easily be done by the owner or a local watch specialist.

Please note that the folding clasp for the leather straps and 42.5mm caoutchouc straps are not interchangeable.

For our models with a case diameter of 39mm, we offer a thinner natural caoutchouc strap in a variety of colors that perfectly matches the smaller diameter of the case. These straps can be worn with either our leather strap folding clasp or our pin buckle.

 

42.5mm case version

 

39mm case version

 

Technical specifications: watches and movement

Zeitwinkel 312°

manufacturer Zeitwinkel Montres S.A., CH St-Imier
model Zeitwinkel 312°
functions display of hours and minutes
running autonomy >72 h
case 39mm  
material stainless steel 316 L
height 11.6 mm
diameter 39 mm
case 42.5mm  
material stainless steel 316 L
height 11.7 mm
diameter 42.5 mm
glass sapphire, convex & with anti-reflection on interior
back sapphire with anti-reflection on interior
water resistance 5 ATM
crown Ø 6.70 mm, Bi-O-ring seal, 12 grooves
dial sector dial with three areas in various colors and finishes
  appliqués facetted & diamond-worked, applied numerals
hands diamond-worked
strap  
leather hand sewn calfskin leather strap with flawless Louisiana alligator structure
  various colors in either 18/18mm or 20/18mm
rubber black for 42.5mm, various colors for 39mm
impulse 39mm case 18mm
impulse 42.5mm case 20mm
clasp  
leather strap and 39mm rubber strap folding clasp with Zeitwinkel engraving
42.5mm rubber strap folding clasp with applied logo

Zeitwinkel 082°

manufacturer Zeitwinkel Montres S.A., CH St-Imier
model Zeitwinkel 082°
functions display of hours, minutes and central seconds
running autonomy >72 h
case 39mm  
material stainless steel 316 L
height 11.6 mm
diameter 39 mm
case 42.5mm  
material stainless steel 316 L
height 11.7 mm
diameter 42.5 mm
glass sapphire, convex & with anti-reflection on interior
back sapphire with anti-reflection on interior
water resistance 5 ATM
crown Ø 6.70 mm, Bi-O-ring seal, 12 grooves
dial sector dial with three areas in various colors and finishes
  appliqués facetted & diamond-worked, applied numerals
hands diamond-worked, central second polished and blued for light colored dials
strap  
leather hand sewn calfskin leather strap with flawless Louisiana alligator structure
  various colors in either 18/18mm or 20/18mm
rubber black for 42.5mm, various colors for 39mm
impulse 39mm case 18mm
impulse 42.5mm case 20mm
clasp  
leather strap and 39mm rubber strap folding clasp with Zeitwinkel engraving
42.5mm rubber strap folding clasp with applied logo

 

 

manufacture caliber ZW0102

caliber ZW0102
version central second hand
manufacturer Zeitwinkel Montres S.A., CH St-Imier
functions automatic winding
  central second (optional)
  balance stop
  optional date
diameter 13½ lines, 30.40 mm
height 5.7 mm
winding rotor, bidirectional winding
running autonomy >72 h
material plates and bridges german silver
bearing jewels 30 – central second version
balance Glucydur
spiral Straumann
frequency (4Hz) 28800 alternations / h
impact resistance Incabloc
adjustment regulation in five positions
decoration screws chamfered and polished
  ¾ plate and balance cock with Geneva Stripes (Côtes de Genève)
  perlage on interior surfaces of plates and bridges
  lining on wheel bridge and rotor
  edges of ¾ plate and bridges chamfered and polished

 

The prices of our watches with central hands

Modell 312° 082°
central second hand no yes
case 39mm & 42.5mm 39mm & 42.5mm
movement ZW0102 ZW0102
price in CHF incl. VAT 15,025 15,025
price in CHF w/o VAT 13,900 13,900

All prices ex manufacture in Saint-Imier / Switzerland in Swiss Francs (CHF) including 8.1% VAT. Recommended retail prices, all prices are subject to change without notice.

Every Zeitwinkel timepiece and every inhouse movement is only built after the customer’s order. To commission a Zeitwinkel watch, please contact one of our partners or the manufacture in Switzerland directly.

We will also gladly inform you about strap options as well as current delivery times. For customers in the EU, we can calculate the up-to-date price in EUR with the applicable VAT.

We will be happy to answer any questions you may have about our watches with central hands. If you would like to order one of these timepieces, please let us know the model, case size, dial color and strap choice. We will gladly make recommendations regarding the strap options.

 

Please let us know how we can help you, e.g. about delivery times, dial and strap options or the order process: