188°: A harmonious design reminiscent of pocket watches

For our 188° model, we have modified the usual three-hand configuration. Although our midsize models find a nice fit on your arm, the Zeitwinkel 188° still reminds people of the classic pocket-watch designs. The hour and minute indicators are complemented by a harmonically arranged off-centre seconds display and a date display at the "3" position. As opposed to many comparable designs, this is clearly readable thanks to its size. 

There are also many other internal values ​​that make our Zeitwinkel 188° so charming. Not least of which the manufacture movement ZW0102 with 72 hour power reserve and automatic winding, and the elaborately decorated German silver plating which can be admired through the view window on the rear side. You can observe the thoroughness of the Zeitwinkel watchmakers of our St-Imier workshops in the precise time display on the front side.

 

Given the inner values, you can focus on the attractive appearance and the resulting long-term connection.

Classic, pure, slightly modified

With its small second display, the Zeitwinkel 188° is a modification of the classic three-hand configuration. One hand each for the hours and the minutes gives you a quick view of the current time. An especially large "small" second, which can be achieved in this manner only using a movement that has been adapted especially to the size of the watch, also allows the measurement of shorter periods. The seconds hand also shows, even at just a glance, that your watch is running perfectly.

The display of the seconds self-assuredly takes its place at the "6" position without distracting the owner of the Zeitwinkel 188° from reading the time.

 

Although watchmakers would say that our Zeitwinkel 188° has a small date display, we prefer not to describe it this way. Thanks to the large size of the ZW0102 manufacture movement, the smaller variant of our date display can also be read well at any time. It reliably moves to the next day at exactly midnight; the date display only needs to be corrected in months with fewer than 31 days. The date display is changed easily using a quick adjustment in the second position.

The Zeitwinkel ZW0102 caliber

The Zeitwinkel caliber ZW0102 is a mechanical manufacture movement with automatic winding. Developed by Zeitwinkel especially for its watches, it is manufactured in small-quantity lots in Jura (Switzerland) with high precision machinery and meticulous diligence.

 

A robust, accurate, and versatile basic movement that can be equipped either with a sweep or a small second and has a relatively large date display as an option. The running time is 72 hours.

 

The movement has a frequency of 28,800 oscillations, a Glucydur balance, and a robust three-quarter plate that plays a significant role in the mechanical stability of the movement.

 

All plates and bridges are made of German silver, chamfered, and hand-decorated. After thorough quality inspection and five-stage calibration, it is installed in the housing by our watchmakers and subjected to a running test that lasts several days.

The casing

The casing for the Zeitwinkel 188° was developed over a period of 14 months in precise accordance with the Zeitwinkel caliber ZW0102 movement. It is constructed of 1.4435 steel alloy which due to its high resistance to intercrystalline corrosion and non-oxidizing acids, protects the valuable manufacture movement especially well. In addition, this alloy is especially well suited for products that are in continuous contact with the skin.

 

The casings are prefabricated using precision machinery at a traditional German business and construction is then completed, primarily by hand.

 

In this process, 26 parts are assembled in more than 80 individual steps for each case. The casing is water resistant up to a tested pressure of five bar; this is possible due to the back cover which is attached with six screws. 

 

Despite a diameter of 39.0 mm and a height of 11.6 mm, the Zeitwinkel case displays an elegant and well-proportioned appearance. The case's unique design becomes immediately apparent the very first time you take a glance at the side of the watch. In particular, the interplay of polished surfaces with strikingly structured, precisely worked areas provides a Zeitwinkel watch with its distinctive appearance. This clear-cut design is continued on the back with its large window showing the movement as well as in the design of the crown.

The glass

We use sapphire glass on both the front and back sides of our timepieces. Sapphire is extremely hard and scratch-resistant; as a result, it is ideally suited for use in high-quality timepieces.

 

The convex lunette crystal has a diameter of 31.9 mm. It has multiple anti-reflection coatings on the inside so that the hands do not reflect on the interior surface and because a coating on the outside of the crystal could wear down. The 30.9mm case back glass is flat and has an anti-reflection coating on the inside as well.

 

As a result, the time can always be easily read even under extreme lighting conditions. Both crystal and back plate glass are tightly inserted into the casing of the Zeitwinkel watch using a complex sealing system ensuring that the watch is sealed up to a pressure of 5 bar.

The crown

Due to its 12 grooves and large diameter, the crown is very easy to grip. With its easy pull, the crown allows you to set all the functions of your watch and then disappears into a precisely sunken, space-saving notch.

 

Screwed-down crowns are often difficult to handle and must always be wound completely to ensure that the watch remains sealed. Due to a multi-stage sealing system with dual O-rings, we were able to do without a screwed-down crown and even if the crown is raised, we guarantee that water cannot enter the valuable inner workings of your Zeitwinkel watch.

The dial

The face of our Zeitwinkel 188° is a modification of the classic three-hand configuration, with hour and minute hands and a decentral, small second hand. Instead of a sweep second hand, we have milled out a so-called "small second" in a finely structured area at the 6 o' clock position.

 

Additionally, we have integrated a date display at the 3 o' clock position. Due to the diameter of our ZW0102 manufacture movement, the size of this display is appropriately large. Of course, the numerals used in the date display are our own Zeitwinkel font.

 

The indexes, set every five minutes and supplementing the minute markers, have the classic arrow shape and are coordinated precisely to the length of the hands. With their beveled edges, they always form a strong contrast to the dial, and are thus easily visible in all lighting conditions.

 

Our Zeitwinkel model 188° is available with a choice of a Black, «Galvanic-Blue”, «Galvanic-Rhodium” or a Silver-faced dial.

The hands

For our Zeitwinkel 188°, we modified the classic three-hand configuration, with hour and minute hands and a small-second hand. Carefully balanced and produced according to our design in one of the best specialized manufactures in Switzerland, silver hour and minute hands and a blued second hand make their rounds. Precisely coordinated to the indexes and the minute markers, they always make the time easy to read.

 

To facilitate this even in varying lighting conditions, we have diamond-cut the large hands, meaning that we have equipped them with two flat surfaces angled to one another over almost the entire length of the hand. This ensures that one side of the hand always reflects the incident light in such a manner that there is a strong contrast to the dial.  

The Zeitwinkel leather bracelet

For our calfskin straps only selected skins are processed and refined with a special method (Vollumbugg method) and created with the highest craftsmanship. The result is a supple and extremely durable strap available in noble brown color or classic black.

 

The exclusive use of vegetable colorants, antiallergic lining and upper leather as well as caoutchouc-based glues provide for excellent skin friendliness and a pleasant wear comfort.

 

The leather bracelets are closed with our Zeitwinkel folding clasp which is made of the antiallergic stainless steel 316L. The clasp can easily be opened and closed with one hand and is at the same time as easily adjustable as a pin buckle.

 

Our Zeitwinkel leather bracelets are embossed in a perfect Louisiana alligator pattern. Due to endangered species protection and sustainability reasons we completely abstain from using reptile leather and, therefore, replace it by high-quality hand-sewn calfskin. Those who value the elegance of a »croco bracelet« and have so far abstained from buying one because of the dubious breeding methods will surely be delighted by our Zeitwinkel alligator-effect strap. 

Data Zeitwinkel 188°

Manufacturer Zeitwinkel Montres S.A., CH St-Imier
Model Zeitwinkel 188°
Functions Displays hour, minute
Small second and date
Running autonomy >72 h
Case
Material Stainless steel 316 L
Height 11.6 mm
Diameter 39.0 mm
Glass Saphire, convex & with anti-reflection on interior
Back Saphire with anti-reflection on interior
Water resistance 5 ATM
Crown Ø 6.70 mm, Bi-O-ring seal, 12 grooves
Dial Galvanic black / Galvanic silver
Galvanic blue / Galvanic rhodium
Appliqués facetted & diamond-worked
Small second with guilloches
Hands Facetted & diamond-worked
Small second polished / thermally blued
Strap
Leather Hand sewn calfskin leather strap
With flawless Louisiana alligator structure
Brown / black / blue / grey
Impulse 18 mm
Clasp
Leather strap Folding clasp with Zeitwinkel engraving

Data movement ZW0102

Caliber ZW0102
Version Zeitwinkel 188°
Manufacturer Zeitwinkel Montres S.A., CH St-Imier
Functions Automatic winding, hour, minute
Small second and date
Balance stop
Quick date setting
Diameter 13½ lines, 30.40 mm
Height 5.70 mm
Winding Rotor, bidirectional winding
Running autonomy >72 h
Bridge and plate material German silver
Bearing jewels 28 – version small second
Balance Glucydur
Spiral Straumann
Frequency (4Hz) 28800 alternations / h
Impact resistance Incabloc
Adjustment Regulated in five stages
Decoration Screws chamfered and polished
¾ plate and balance cock with Geneva
Stripes (Côtes de Genève)
Pearlage on interior surfaces of plates and
bridges
Lining on wheel bridge and rotor
Edges of ¾ plate and bridges
chamfered and polished

Color combination