273° Saphir fumé: full transparency

Thanks to its subtly toned dial made from extremely hard sapphire glass, the Zeitwinkel 273° «saphir fumé» is intriguingly beautiful to behold. Our flagship model reveals the elegant automatic manufacture movement with its patented large date mechanism as well as the elaborately decorated front side of the mechanism. A power reserve indicator completes the dial.

For the first time, the elaborate big date module and other areas of our own Zeitwinkel manufacture movement ZW0103 with its interplay of light and shadows in the decoration can be observed at work through the sapphire dial.

 

The complex manufacturing process of the dial, consisting of twenty different steps, means we can only make a limited number of these watches with a list price of CHF 13,500. To learn more and to secure your personal Zeitwinkel 273° «saphir fumé», please contact us either by email under info{at}zeitwinkel.ch or through our contact page.

Simply expressive

The Zeitwinkel 273° Saphir fumé features besides a classic time display, two additional functions that add value to everyday life. One hand for each the hours and the minutes gives you a quick view of the current time. An especially large small-second, which can be fabricated in this manner only using a movement that has been adapted especially to the size of the watch, also allows the measurement of shorter periods. The second hand also shows, even at just a glance, that your watch is running perfectly.

 

The length of the hands was coordinated precisely to the minute markers and the indexes that are located at intervals of five minutes. The seconds display confidently rests at the 6 o' clock position without distracting the owner of the Zeitwinkel 273° Saphir fumé from reading the time.

 

 

The noteworthy feature of the Zeitwinkel 273° Saphir fumé is found at the 11 o' clock position. A large, easily readable date display shows the day of the month made possible by our ZW0103 manufactory movement. It reliably moves to the next day at exactly midnight; the date display only needs to be corrected in months with fewer than 31 days. To be able to install the large date display in this unusual yet functionally logical position, the date mechanism had to be completely redeveloped. We have received a patent for this construction.

 

The Zeitwinkel 273° Saphir fumé has a power reserve indicator located between the 1 o'clock and 2 o'clock positions. In normal use, the automatic winding mechanism in the caliber ZW0103 manufacture movement reliably keeps the watch wound. This display is very useful, as it shows how long your watch will continue running reliably.

The Zeitwinkel ZW0103 caliber

The Zeitwinkel caliber ZW0103 a mechanical manufacture movement with automatic winding and a semi-integrated complication for the date display. Developed by Zeitwinkel especially for the Classic series, it is manufactured in small-quantity lots in Jura (Switzerland) with high precision machinery and the meticulous diligence.

 

Based on our Zeitwinkel caliber ZW0102, we have added a self-developed complication for displaying the remaining running time and the date. The noticeable feature is the display of the date in large numerals at the 11 o' clock position. We have received a patent for the specially designed technical solution required for this. The running time of the mechanism is 72 hours. 

 

The movement has the formidable diameter of 30.4 mm, 49 bearing jewels and a total of 387 components, a frequency of 28,800 oscillations, a Glucydur balance and a robust three-quarter plate that plays a significant role in the mechanical stability of the movement. All plates and bridges of the mechanism as well as of the semi-integrated complication are made of German silver, chamfered and hand-decorated.

The casing

The casing for the Zeitwinkel 273° Saphir fumé was developed over a period of 14 months in precise accordance with the Zeitwinkel caliber ZW0103 date movement. It is constructed of 1.4435 steel alloy which, due to its high resistance to intercrystalline corrosion and non-oxidized acids, protects the valuable manufacture movement especially well. In addition, this alloy is especially well suited for products that are in continuous contact with the skin.

 

To attain an interplay between polished surfaces and those with a matte structure, the casings are prefabricated using precision machinery at a traditional business in Germany and construction is then completed, primarily by hand.

In this process, 26 parts are assembled in more than 80 individual steps for each case. The casing is water resistant up to a tested pressure of five bar; this is possible due to the back cover which is attached with six screws. 

 

Despite its diameter of 42.5 mm, the case displays an elegant and well-proportioned appearance. Compared to other Zeitwinkel models, its height was increased to 13,8 mm to incorporate the semi-integrated date unit. The case's unique design becomes immediately apparent the very first time you take a glance at the side of the watch. In particular, the interplay of polished surfaces with strikingly structured, precisely worked areas provides a Zeitwinkel watch with its distinctive appearance. This clear-cut design is continued on the back, with its large window showing the movement, as well as in the design of the crown.

The glass

We use sapphire glass on both the front and back sides of our timepieces. Sapphire is extremely hard and scratch-resistant; as a result, it is ideally suited for use in high-quality timepieces.

 

The convex lunette crystal has a diameter of 35.4 mm. It has multiple anti-reflection coatings on the inside so that the hands do not reflect on the interior surface and because a coating on the outside of the crystal could wear down. The 30.9mm case back glass is flat and has an anti-reflection coating on the inside as well.

 

As a result, the time can always be easily read even under extreme lighting conditions. Both crystal and back plate glass are tightly inserted into the casing of the Zeitwinkel watch using a complex sealing system ensuring that the watch is sealed up to a pressure of 5 bar.

The crown

Due to its 12 grooves and its large diameter (an impressive 8 mm), the crown is very easy to grip. With its easy pull, the crown allows you to set all the functions of your watch and then disappears into a precisely sunken, space-saving notch. The surface is polished, but is kept matte surrounding the raised Zeitwinkel logo.

 

Screwed-down crowns are often difficult to handle and must always be wound completely to ensure that the watch remains sealed. Due to a multi-stage sealing system with dual O-rings, we were able to do without a screwed-down crown, and even if the crown is raised, we guarantee that water cannot enter the valuable inner workings of your Zeitwinkel watch.

The dial

The dial made from extremely hard, subtly tinted sapphire glass makes our Zeitwinkel 273° Saphir fumé unique. It reflects the high value of this mechanical timepiece and allows its owner to admire the elaborately decorated front side of the movement. In addition to the central display of the hours and minutes, we have milled out a so-called "small second" in a finely structured area at the 6 o' clock position.

The integrated date window at the 11 o' clock position gives this model its distinctive appearance. Of course, the numerals used in the date display are our own Zeitwinkel font.

The sapphire crystal dial is manufactured in nearly twenty steps. Complex technical processes are used to bring out the decorative elements, including unique methods of engraving, polishing, varnish application and coating processes. The end result is our transparent dial with fine sculptural details and interesting light effects.

 

The hands

We have given the hands of our Zeitwinkel 273° Saphir fumé a particularly complex design. In addition to the modified three-hand configuration, with hour and minute hands and a small-second hand, this model is equipped with a hand for displaying the remaining running time. Carefully balanced and produced according to our design in one of the best specialized manufactures in Switzerland, silver hour and minute hands and two small steel hands make their rounds. Precisely coordinated to the indexes, minute markers and the scales, always making the time easy to read.

 

To facilitate this even in varying lighting conditions, we have diamond-cut the large hands, meaning we have equipped them with two flat surfaces that are angled to one another over almost the entire length of the hand. This ensures that one side of the hand always reflects the incident light in such a manner that there is a strong contrast to the dial.

 

The small hands provide a marked contrast as well when viewed against the transparent sapphire dial background. They are conformed to the especially large recess for the small-second hand in the face and the raised scale for the power reserve indicator.  

The Zeitwinkel leather bracelet

For our calfskin straps only selected skins are processed and refined with a special method (Vollumbugg method) and created with the highest craftsmanship. The result is a supple and extremely durable strap available in noble brown color or classic black.

 

The exclusive use of vegetable colorants, antiallergic lining and upper leather as well as caoutchouc-based glues provide for excellent skin friendliness and a pleasant wear comfort.

 

The leather bracelets are closed with our Zeitwinkel folding clasp which is made of the antiallergic stainless steel 316L. The clasp can easily be opened and closed with one hand and is at the same time as easily adjustable as a pin buckle.

 

Our Zeitwinkel leather bracelets are embossed in a perfect Louisiana alligator pattern. Due to endangered species protection and sustainability reasons we completely abstain from using reptile leather and, therefore, replace it by high-quality hand-sewn calfskin. Those who value the elegance of a »croco bracelet« and have so far abstained from buying one because of the dubious breeding methods will surely be delighted by our Zeitwinkel alligator-effect strap. 

The Zeitwinkel rubber strap

As an alternative to our leather bracelet you can also wear every Zeitwinkel model with our high-quality and durable caoutchouc watch straps.

 

Caoutchouc has proven to be very skin-friendly and extremely durable not only for the use in warmer countries or tropical regions but also in sports. It is waterproof, UV-resistant, tearproof, and dimensionally stable. We have redesigned this antiallergic strap which has been tested for harmful substances from scratch and modelled the synthetic caoutchouc such that it does not bulge even when worn for a longer period of time. The Zeitwinkel logos which are embossed on the inner side of the strap provide for a better ventilation of the skin and improve wear comfort.

 

The Zeitwinkel caoutchouc watch strap is closed with a high precision manufactured folding clasp made of polished stainless steel 316L. It keeps your timepiece safely and securely in place on your wrist and can still be opened and closed with one hand. 

Data Zeitwinkel 273° Saphir fumé

Manufacturer Zeitwinkel Montres S.A., CH St-Imier
Model Zeitwinkel 273° Saphir fumé
Functions Displays hour, minute, small second
Large date and power reserve
Running autonomy >72 h
Case
Material Stainless steel 316 L
Height 13.8 mm
Diameter 42.5 mm
Glass Sapphire, convex & with anti-reflection on interior
Back Sapphire with anti-reflection on interior
Water resistance 5 ATM
Crown Ø 8.0 mm, Bi-O-ring seal, 12 grooves
Dial Transparent sapphire
Appliqués facetted & diamond-worked
Small second recessed
Hands Facetted & diamond-worked
Small second polished /
Strap
Leather Hand sewn calfskin leather strap
With flawless Louisiana alligator structure
black
Rubber Black
Impulse 20 mm
Clasp
Leather strap Folding clasp with Zeitwinkel engraving
Rubber strap Folding clasp with applied logo

Data movement ZW0103

Caliber ZW0103
Version Zeitwinkel 273° Saphir fumé
Manufacturer Zeitwinkel Montres S.A., CH St-Imier
Functions Automatic winding
Small second
Balance stop
Large date at position "11" with
quick setting
Power reserve indicator
Diameter 13½ lines, 30.40 mm
Height 8.0 mm
Winding Rotor, bidirectional winding
Running autonomy >72 h
Bridge and plate material German silver
Bearing jewels 49 – large date version
Balance Glucydur
Spiral Straumann
Frequency (4Hz) 28800 alternations / hour
Impact resistance Incabloc
Adjustment Regulated in five stages
Decoration Screws chamfered and polished
¾ plate and balance cock with Geneva
Stripes (Côtes de Genève)
Pearlage on interior surfaces of plates and
bridges
Lining on wheel bridge and rotor
Edges of ¾ plate and bridges
chamfered and polished