Beautiful craftsmanship: our Zeitwinkel 082° émail «grand feu» with its enamel dial

For this exceptional model, Zeitwinkel refers to the traditional and complicated enameling process called »émail grand feu«. This method requires mastering the materials as well as the process temperatures, resulting in a radiant enamel watch dial of lasting beauty for our model 082° émail grand feu.

 

With its combination of elaborate technique, excellent quality and timeless durability, the new enamel-dial watch perfectly ties in with Zeitwinkel’s philosophy. Its three hands for the representation of the hour, minutes, and seconds is precision driven by the Zeitwinkel manufacture movement ZW0102. Its functionality as well as the elaborately decorated German silver plates of the mechanism can be admired through the large window on the rear side of the Zeitwinkel 082° émail grand feu.

The enamel dial

The dial of our Zeitwinkel 082° émail grand feu embodies puristically the classic three-hand-configuration including hour, minute and sweep second. We have studied the wonderful possibilities of the “grand feu” enamel process and subsequently decided that despite many preconceptions, enamel can look very modern and outright “cool”.

 

With this timepiece, Zeitwinkel surprises connoisseurs of the brand: the 082° émail grand feu  is the first Zeitwinkel watch with numeric time indicators. Arabic numerals in the proprietary Zeitwinkel corporate typeface ensure excellent readability and create a contemporary and progressive look.  Although it breaks with the conventions by employing an unusual blue color for the enamel numerals,  the 082° émail grand feu celebrates the renaissance of enamel dials.

The Zeitwinkel ZW0102 caliber

The Zeitwinkel caliber ZW0102 is a mechanical manufacture movement with automatic winding. Developed by Zeitwinkel especially for its watches, it is manufactured in small-quantity lots in Jura (Switzerland) with high precision machinery and meticulous diligence.

 

In the version for our enamel watches, this robust, accurate and versatile basic movement has been equipped with blued screws for the first time in a Zeitwinkel watch. As with other versions, this elaborately decorated manufacture movement has a running time of 72 hours.

 

The movement has a frequency of 28,800 oscillations, a Glucydur balance, and a robust three-quarter plate that plays a significant role in the mechanical stability of the movement.

 

All plates and bridges are made of German silver, chamfered, and hand-decorated. After thorough quality inspection and five-stage calibration, it is installed in the housing by our watchmakers and subjected to a running test that lasts several days.

The casing

The casing for the Zeitwinkel 082° émail grand feu was developed over a period of 14 months in precise accordance with the Zeitwinkel caliber ZW0102 movement. It is constructed of 1.4435 steel alloy which due to its high resistance to intercrystalline corrosion and non-oxidizing acids, protects the valuable manufacture movement especially well. In addition, this alloy is especially well suited for products that are in continuous contact with the skin.

 

The casings are prefabricated using precision machinery at a traditional German business and construction is then completed, primarily by hand.

 

In this process, 26 parts are assembled in more than 80 individual steps for each case. The casing is water resistant up to a tested pressure of five bar; this is possible due to the back cover which is attached with six screws. 

 

Despite a diameter of 39.0 mm and a height of 11.6  mm, the Zeitwinkel case displays an elegant and well-proportioned appearance. The case's unique design becomes immediately apparent the very first time you take a glance at the side of the watch. In particular, the interplay of polished surfaces with strikingly structured, precisely worked areas provides a Zeitwinkel watch with its distinctive appearance. This clear-cut design is continued on the back with its large window showing the movement as well as in the design of the crown.

The glass

We use sapphire glass on both the front and back sides of our timepieces. Sapphire is extremely hard and scratch-resistant; as a result, it is ideally suited for use in high-quality timepieces.

 

The convex lunette crystal has a diameter of 31.9 mm. It has multiple anti-reflection coatings on the inside so that the hands do not reflect on the interior surface and because a coating on the outside of the crystal could wear down. The 30.9mm case back glass is flat and has an anti-reflection coating on the inside as well.

 

As a result, the time can always be easily read even under extreme lighting conditions. Both crystal and back plate glass are tightly inserted into the casing of the Zeitwinkel watch using a complex sealing system ensuring that the watch is sealed up to a pressure of 5 bar.

The Crown

Due to its 12 grooves and large diameter, the crown is very easy to grip. With its easy pull, the crown allows you to set all the functions of your watch and then disappears into a precisely sunken, space-saving notch.

 

Screwed-down crowns are often difficult to handle and must always be wound completely to ensure that the watch remains sealed. Due to a multi-stage sealing system with dual O-rings, we were able to do without a screwed-down crown and even if the crown is raised, we guarantee that water cannot enter the valuable inner workings of your Zeitwinkel watch.

The hands

For our Zeitwinkel 082° émail grand feu, we have also newly developed the watch hands and adapted them to the enamel dial. The hour and minute hands are manufactured individually by hand in our ateliers in Saint-Imier. A clearly defined, long, sweep second hand enables the measurement of shorter periods.

 

To facilitate this even in varying lighting conditions, we have angled our hands, meaning that we have equipped them with surfaces angled to one another over almost the entire length of the hand. This ensures that one side of the hand always reflects incident light in such a manner that there is a strong contrast to the beautiful enamel “grand feu” dial. 

The Zeitwinkel leather bracelet

For our calfskin straps only selected skins are processed and refined with a special method (Vollumbugg method) and created with the highest craftsmanship. The result is a supple and extremely durable strap available in noble brown color or classic black.

 

The exclusive use of vegetable colorants, antiallergic lining and upper leather as well as caoutchouc-based glues provide for excellent skin friendliness and a pleasant wear comfort.

 

The leather bracelets are closed with our Zeitwinkel folding clasp which is made of the antiallergic stainless steel 316L. The clasp can easily be opened and closed with one hand and is at the same time as easily adjustable as a pin buckle.

 

Our Zeitwinkel leather bracelets are embossed in a perfect Louisiana alligator pattern. Due to endangered species protection and sustainability reasons we completely abstain from using reptile leather and, therefore, replace it by high-quality hand-sewn calfskin. Those who value the elegance of a »croco bracelet« and have so far abstained from buying one because of the dubious breeding methods will surely be delighted by our Zeitwinkel alligator-effect strap.

Data Zeitwinkel 082° émail grand feu

Manufacturer Zeitwinkel Montres S.A., CH St-Imier
Model Zeitwinkel 082° émail grand feu
Functions Displays hour, minute, second
Running autonomy >72 h
Case
Material Stainless steel 316 L
Height 11.6 mm
Diameter 39.0 mm
Glass Saphire, convex & with anti-reflection on interior
Back Saphire with anti-reflection on interior
Water resistance 5 ATM
Crown Ø 6.70 mm, Bi-O-ring seal, 12 grooves
Dial Enamel „grand feu“
Arabic numerals in Zeitwinkel corporate typeface
Blue enamel numerals
Hands hand-made in-house
thermally blued
Sweep second polished / thermally blued
Strap
Leather Hand sewn calfskin leather strap
With flawless Louisiana alligator structure
Brown / black / blue / grey
Impulse 18 mm
Clasp
Leather strap Folding clasp with Zeitwinkel engraving

Data movement ZW0102

Caliber ZW0102
Version Zeitwinkel 082° émail grand feu
Manufacturer Zeitwinkel Montres S.A., CH St-Imier
Functions Automatic winding
Balance stop
Diameter 13½ lines, 30.40 mm
Height 5.70 mm
Winding Rotor, bidirectional winding
Running autonomy >72 h
Bridge and plate material German silver
Screws thermally blued
Bearing jewels 30 – Version sweep second
Balance Glucydur
Spiral Straumann
Frequency (4Hz) 28800 alternations / h
Impact resistance Incabloc
Adjustment Regulated in five stages
Decoration Screws chamfered and polished
¾ plate and balance cock with Geneva
Stripes (Côtes de Genève)
Pearlage on interior surfaces of plates and
bridges, blued screws
Lining on wheel bridge and rotor
Edges of ¾ plate and bridges
chamfered and polished